El Bano Del Papa -
Released in 2007, El Baño del Papa ( The Pope’s Toilet ) is a Uruguayan-Brazilian-French co-production that offers a poignant, tragicomic critique of neoliberal economics and the culture of improvisation. Set in the impoverished town of Melo, Uruguay, in 1988, the film fictionalizes a real historical event: Pope John Paul II’s visit to the region. While the townspeople see the papal visit as a miraculous opportunity to escape poverty by selling food and goods to the expected massive crowd, the protagonist, Beto (César Troncoso), devises an ostensibly more sophisticated plan—building a pay-per-use toilet. The film functions as a microcosm of Latin America’s fraught relationship with rapid economic liberalization, exposing the chasm between the fantasy of entrepreneurship and the crushing weight of structural poverty.
The film argues that modern poverty is sustained by dreams sold through mass media. The Pope is not a villain; he is a symbol of a distant, benevolent authority that cannot—and does not—address local economic structures. The true antagonist is the invisible system that encourages poor people to compete against each other for a slice of a non-existent pie. El Bano del Papa
Beto is a humble, resourceful smuggler who crosses the Brazilian border daily to sell contraband goods. Upon hearing of the Pope’s arrival, he dismisses the villagers’ plans to sell empanadas and barbecue, reasoning that a toilet is a unique, indispensable luxury for pilgrims enduring a long, hot day. With the help of his loyal wife, Carmen, and his idealistic young daughter, Silvia, he mortgages his meager possessions, builds a concrete latrine outside his home, and waits for wealth to flow. Released in 2007, El Baño del Papa (
The film meticulously deconstructs this myth. Beto’s toilet is clean, tiled, and lovingly built—an absurdly sophisticated infrastructure for a crowd that never arrives. The anticipated millions of pilgrims turn out to be only a few hundred. The local authorities, who had promised infrastructure and support, fail to deliver buses or water. The Pope’s helicopter lands, delivers a brief blessing, and departs, leaving behind a wasteland of unsold food, spoiled meat, and Beto’s pristine, useless latrine. The film functions as a microcosm of Latin
The film also offers a subtle but crucial gendered and generational critique. Beto is stubborn, proud, and fixated on his “grand idea.” His wife, Carmen, represents pragmatic survival: she bakes cakes and sells them, accepting small, real gains over large, imaginary ones. Their daughter, Silvia, dreams of becoming a journalist and escaping Melo altogether. Through Silvia’s eyes, the audience sees the tragedy of her father’s delusion—not as cruelty, but as a form of love gone wrong. Beto builds the toilet not for himself, but to give his daughter a future. When the plan fails, the film’s devastating final shot shows Beto sitting on his immaculate toilet, staring into the void, while Silvia silently climbs onto a bus to leave town. The failed father is left alone with his concrete monument to debt.